Maria Teresa Mascarello's 2014 Barolo has put on a good bit of weight since I first tasted it, yet it remains nervous, tightly wound and compact - which is to say, very much in the style of the year. Time in the glass brings out a host of bright red cherry, pomegranate, mint, leather and orange peel nuances, but only with reluctance. The 2014 is a positively electric Barolo, but it likely won't be ready to charm anytime soon. Readers should plan on cellaring it for at least a handful of years. Sadly, production is down by 40%. Tasted Feb 2018. Antonio Galloni