The Desvignes portfolio attains its crescendo with the 2020 Morgon Côte du Py Les Impénitents. Offering up aromas of wild berries, violets, orange rind, Egyptian musk, warm spices and loamy soil, it's medium to full-bodied, seamless and complete, its broad and velvety attack segueing into a deep and layered mid-palate that's framed by rich, powdery tannins and lively acids. Multidimensional, penetrating and perfumed, it's a profound Morgon that numbers among the wines of the vintage. But what's new? William Kelley for Robert Parker