Critic Score

94 – Harvey Steiman, Wine Spectato

90 – Jeremy Oliver, The Australian Wine Annual

This benchmark bottle captures the height of the Barossa Valley's elite, low-yielding flagship movement, specifically sourced from old-vine plots engineered to express extreme power and regional identity.

The 1997 growing season in South Australia was notably challenging and erratic; a cool, damp spring slowed initial vine growth before a sudden surge of intense mid-summer heat and unpredictable harvest rains tested growers. This variance ultimately yielded fruit that was slightly lighter than the blockbuster 1996 and 1998 releases, but rewarded careful selectors with highly distinct varietal spice and bright, structural acidity.

Presenting a deep, fully evolved dark red colour with a clear rim, the wine exudes a heavy, intensely complex aromatic profile layering hickory-smoked bacon, buttery oak, and sweet notes of jammy blackberry fruit.

The palate is thick, chunky, and mouth-filling, balancing its signature punch of rich black fruits against heavy, well-integrated French oak and distinct hints of liquorice.

Supported by medium, completely rounded tannins, the opulent texture delivers a substantial, highly persistent mouthfeel that handles its warm alcohol beautifully.

Serving as the definitive critical reference for the vintage, the review by Wine Spectator's lead Australian editor Harvey Steiman celebrates its complex structural layers, noting that it is "brimming with prune, pepper and leather aromas".