Sandro Chia's 12th century fortress estate sits on one of Montalcino's most exposed ridges, its vineyards on the cooler northwestern side of the appellation. Colto is the newest wine here, first made in 2020 from young vines planted deep in the woods, and produced in tiny quantity at around 6,000 bottles. 100% Sangiovese, aged six months in wood, six in cement and six in bottle. Bright ruby, with wild raspberry, sour cherry, dried violets and a wisp of woodsmoke. Taut rather than plush, finely tannic and saline. The label is Chia's Southern Comfort, 1984.

Bright red cherry, herbs, earth and gentle spice give this plenty of character from the outset. Fresh and approachable, but with enough savoury detail and concentration to make it more than simply an easy-drinking Rosso. - 92pts, Wine Advocate