This strikes me as among the best value wines yet tasted this year. Full-weighted. Balanced by old-vine tannic torque, as much by a thread of chalky freshness joining the attack to the long, resinous finish. Cirillo likes to guzzle this as one would a Cotes-du-Rhone, such is its giddy effortlessness. Sassafras, kirsch, tea-tree menthol notes and a redolent echo of persimmon. Delicious! 94pts. Drink or hold. Ned Goodwin MW for James Halliday