GIACONDA ESTATE

In the early 2000’s I conducted a head-to-head tasting of Australia’s most revered Chardonnay of the time, Leeuwin Estate, matched up against a lesser-known example from the relatively unheralded region of Beechworth in Australia. Whilst there were no losers that evening, it felt as though it was a coming-of-age moment for Giaconda in Queensland. Word was out and the wines of the Kinzbrunner family were on their way to becoming the ‘insiders’ Chardonnay, a mantle they’ve held on to for close to two decades.

That was until last year when the world’s most influential wine journal, Wine Advocate, rated Giaconda’s 2021 Estate Chardonnay 100/100 (a few of my esteemed clients also laid claim to this being the best Australian white wine they had ever tasted). The news has taken Giaconda to another level… internationally acclaimed icon. Accordingly, demand for this already finite and highly limited resource has become crazier and annual allocations disappear faster than most of us 50+ types can input our credit card details into Giaconda’s web order form. And, to make matters worse, Giaconda’s vineyard resources are expected to decrease significantly in future vintages due to a variety of factors.

We therefore find ourselves in an incredibly privileged position to receive an allocation of this amazing winery (note: all wines from this release rate between 96 & 99pts from the Halliday Wine Companion team) and to be able to offer our valued clients the opportunity to acquire these vinous treasures. It has become necessary to sell these very limited wines as a collection (in 2022 this will be a Quartet – one bottle each of the 4 wines). However, in purchasing this collection you will essentially acquire 2 of the 3 non-Chardonnay bottles for free, considering the typical secondary market pricing of an Estate Chardonnay post release. And, if we were to be truly honest with ourselves, owning these wines and being the final stop in this epic 50-year journey of the Kinzbrunner family (see below) and their passionate devotion to this memorable work of art, is nothing short of priceless.

Giaconda vineyard was established by Rick Kinzbrunner, a mechanical engineer who became interested in wine in the early 1970's. Rick then spent the next ten years working in the industry, travelling and following his passion for wine. After a brief stint in New Zealand, he studied at Davis University in California and worked at some of the most respected wineries in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys (namely Stag's Leap, Simi and Matanzas Creek). In Europe he worked for the Moueix group in Bordeaux, co-owner of the fabled Chateau Petrus. After returning to Australia in 1980 to take up a position as assistant winemaker at Brown Brothers in Milawa, Rick purchased land in the nearby Beechworth wine region - at the foothills of the beautiful North-East Victorian Alps. Planting commenced in 1982 and the property is now devoted solely to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz. A separate planting of Nebbiolo has also been established close to the Beechworth township at Red Hill. Total area under vines at the Giaconda Estate Vineyard is now 4 hectares.

Rick’s son Nathan is the Assistant Winemaker and General Business Manager. Nathan also owns a single hectare planting of Nebbiolo located at 'Red Hill' in Beechworth which produces fruit made under the Giaconda label. The Estate vineyard is managed sustainability and carefully according to environmental consciousness. Since 2018 Giaconda are fully certified organic by the Bio Dynamic Research Institute (BDRI). At an altitude of 400+ metres (1,312 feet) the site and climate are influenced by the surrounding alpine valleys. The Chardonnay is planted on a relatively cool south-facing slope which is sheltered from the direct impact of the sun's rays. This results in a much slower ripening period, greater flavour complexity and natural acid levels. The soil is 450-million-year-old granitic loam over decomposed gravel and clay. The clay is important in allowing sustained water-release to the vine roots; while the soil, being not too rich, is ideal for wine quality - lower yields are naturally regulated. Nights are generally cool with days being relatively warm, providing ideal conditions for slow ripening. Cropping levels are approximately 2.5 tonnes per acre.