The Giacomo Conterno 2016 Barolo Arione is a wine that opens gradually to show increased definition and richness. The word "spessore" is "thickness" in English; however, the Italian word denotes a little more grace, making "ampleness" or "plenitude" perhaps a more perfect translation. Those are exactly the right terms to describe this wine and, generally speaking, fruit from the Arione MGA. As Roberto Conterno once said to me, "Francia is elegance and Arione is power." Distinctive notes of blackberry, iron, black earth and tarry smoke lift from the bouquet. The generous fruit is backed by etched and firmly structured tannic contouring. Monica Larner