Quite pale green-yellow in the glass, restrained and reserved on the nose with pristine lemon blossom and steely mineral aromas. The palate opens with again reserved flavours but great intensity, an impression of ripe-fruit sweetness in the centre before a finish of yeasty/pastry and lime/citrus flavours, white pepper and slaty acidity. Long carry, cleansing and appetisingly more-ish aftertaste. Best cellar for a year or two, then drink for a decade and a half. 96pts Drink 2027-2040. Huon Hooke