Wild herbs, crushed pomegranates, dusty rose and savory spice define the wildly exotic 2017 Brunello di Montalcino. Its textures are silky and pliant, but with a vibrant streak of acidity and mineral tones that add a more grippy yet jovial feel, as potent red fruits and lavender tones slowly saturate toward the close. Fine tannins come forward through the medium-length finale, as this tapers off to hints of sour citrus, rose and clove. I've watched the 2017 improve in bottle after first tasting it in Montalcino in July, and then again in New York City in the fall of 2021. The evolution is striking, as is the balance that Le Chiuse has obtained from the 2017 vintage. Eric Guido for Antonio Galloni