A textbook blanc de blancs in a relatively opulent style, with ample grilled nut, brioche and spice character alongside classic flavors of poached apricot, kumquat, oyster shell and lemon blossom. This rich profile is well-defined by racy acidity, sleek and well-cut, driving the long, lacy finish. A beauty. Drink now through 2035. 96pts. Wine Spectator.

Rippling with ripe stone-fruit and citrus aromas, plus notes of buttered toast and chalk, this is both powerful and mouthwatering, with enough structure to carry its imposing stature. The lemony finish is at once creamy and saline. A Blanc de Blancs from 5 top Crus in the Côte des Blancs. Drink now. 95pts. James Suckling.

This is the last vintage of Chas Heidsieck to be sold in the old standard bottle shape rather than the snazzy new one introduced in 2007. Made by Thierry Roset to the usual recipe: four grands crus from the Côte des Blancs plus Vertus – 20% each. 'The easiest wine to make', according to Cyril Brun, who sees the 2006 as a complete contrast to the austere 2004. Though of course they have to decide which vintages are worth it. See the vertical included in this article. Dosage 9g/l. Disgorged spring 2019. My bottle showed remarkably sluggish mousse (which doesn't bother me). This was unlikely to be because of the glass because the 2012 had just been very lively in the same glass. Tastes a little bit round and rich, but according to Brun, 'after time in bottle the role of the ingredients takes over the role of the vintage'. Very lively and flirtatious. Transparent and mineral – very Côte des Blancs. Definitely lively champagne rather than one of those champagnes that tastes more like a white burgundy with bubbles. Spreads across the palate. There's a rich undertow but only at the very end after the ethereal, filigree aspect that heralds this wine. 18+/20. Jancis Robinson.

The blend consists of 20% from each of the five Côte des Blanc crus of Cramant, Avize, Le Mesnil, Oger, and Vertus. The first four are grand crus, and Vertus is premier cru. According to cellar master Cyril Brun, each cru is chosen for its capacity to bring something unique to the blend. Cramant brings complexity and finesse, Oger a degree of opulence, Avize exotic fruit and minerality, Le Mesnil balance, and also mineral notes. Finally, Vertus, the only premier cru after the four grand crus, is selected for its freshness and texture.