A still wonderfully fresh, floral and citrus imbued nose is laced with hints of mineral reduction and quinine. The gorgeously textured medium-bodied flavors possess fine depth and persistence on the well-balanced, stony and attractively dry but not really austere finale. This classy effort is clearly still on the way up and should continue to age gracefully for years. With that said, it's not so compact that it couldn't be enjoyed now even though it's equally clear that it's by no means mature. -Allen Meadows for Burghound.