Bright yellow. Lemon drop and oil, peach, hazelnut and flowers on the subtly complex nose. Tactile and brisk on entry, then thick and energetic in the middle palate, conveying a distinct impression of sweetness countered by pure saline minerality. The wine's peachy fruit hints at almost honeyed ripeness without losing its verve. Finishes with outstanding mounting length. This has the palate presence and depth of a grand cru. Stephen Tanzer