Vines planted 1987, managed organically, hand-picked over 2 weeks, wild yeast open-fermented separately, one batch with 20% whole bunches, another with 50%, matured in French barriques (20% new) for 9 months. Exceptionally powerful on the bouquet and all the way to the finish and aftertaste. Has that tension between savoury fruits on the one hand, and gleaming red and purple fruits on the other. The result is a wine with almost painful length, keeping the taste buds working flat out keeping up to progress along and across the palate. Tastedd February 2018.  97pts. Drink 2018-2030. James Halliday for Wine Companion.