The '23 vintage was wet and cool, and that plays out in the electric drive and vibrancy of fruit, though there is considerable intensity, too. There are orchard florals, along with Akane apple, green almond, stone fruit kernel and firm, just ripening peach along with briny sea spray notes. A mix of crushed and whole-bunch-pressed fruit fermented in concrete and old oak has built quiet texture, finely upholstering the structure, while also adding a refined pithiness of feel. There is a lot going on here but in such a serenely harmonious way, and it will age superbly, too. 97pts. Drink 2025-2035. Marcus Ellis for Halliday Wine Companion.