Brovia’s Serralunga Barolo, the 2008 Barolo Ca’ Mia, saturates every corner of the palate. Dark fruit, smoke, melted road tar, graphite and incense wrap around the palate in this dramatic large-scaled Barolo. Even more promising than it was right after bottling, the 2008 impresses for its spherical personality and towering class. Serralunga is, of course, best known for producing powerful wines, but Brovia’s Ca’Mia is just as remarkable for its superb finesse and elegance. Antonio Galloni